Personal trainers that are familiar with
mountaineering are highly recommended as they can create personal training
plans utilizing both indoor and outdoor locations with long range objectives
and criteria. Trainers and training programs can help build a program based on
your location, recognize your access to health climbs and outdoor training.
For those who have not trained for mountaineering or
want to refine their training with some industry professionals, we recommend:
Doug and Courtenay Schurman of Body Results
Steve House and staff at the Uphill Athlete
PREPARATION FOR MOUNT EVEREST CLIMBS
To reach the summit of Everest (29,035 ft./8,850 m)
you must be in top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. Benchmarks
for physical conditioning include: Successful previous trips above 20,000 ft.
whenever possible, during which you will gain experience dealing with gear and
equipment; handling extremely cold temperatures and extreme altitude; gaining
solid cramponing skills both on and off rock, snow, and ice; rappelling with a
pack on; and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed line. In addition to solid
alpine living, snow, and ice-climbing skills, you need significant strength
endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
Keep in mind that just because you exercise regularly
at significantly lower elevation does not mean you have suitable conditioning
needed to stand on top of the world. Cardiovascular fitness is simply not
enough. You should focus on building physical conditioning at lower altitudes
necessary to ascend 4,000 ft. of elevation on successive days carrying 50–60
lbs. Although you will not be carrying such weight on Everest, by conditioning
your body to that degree of high tolerance, you will have built extra reserves
that will serve you very well on the mountain as you inevitably start to lose
musculature and body fat from being at extreme altitudes for two months. This
extra reserve will also make it possible to focus on the many, many other
components involved in a climb of such extremes, rather than dealing with the
added harsh reality that your physical preparation may have been somewhat less
than adequate.
Prioritize your training efforts in the following way,
assuming that you are in good health and injury-free:
Climbing conditioning — pack-loaded uphill hiking,
walking, and stair climbing
Strength training — for the lower body and core
Cardiovascular training — including both aerobic and
anaerobic workouts with and without pack weight
Flexibility training